How I keep my rosacea under control
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
Since I hit the menopause in my late 40s, I have suffered from outbreaks of acne rosacea. And while I have found the smattering of spots irritating and depressing, for others, the red skin can be a debilitating concern.
According to dermatologist Dr Amélie Seghers, rosacea tends to be genetic. “It is what is known as an immune-mediated inflammatory disease,” she says. “Similar to acne, eczema and psoriasis, these trigger the body’s immune system to fight itself, causing inflammation that comes and goes. Factors that play a role range from emotional stress to spicy foods, red wine, hot drinks and cold or hot weather” – meaning there’s no one solution for all.
When treating me, Seghers suggested a calming mix of topical products, starting with the antibiotic lotion Dalacin T (£16.99 for 30ml), and then slowly introducing azelaic acid, which has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
Facialist Joanne Evans at Skin Matters recommends products that help repair the skin barrier – something compromised by rosacea. But she also counsels not to be frightened of gentle exfoliation. “Exfoliating with a gentle lactic-acid wash will allow products to penetrate the epidermis and heal the skin better.” Incorporating antioxidants (including vitamins A, C and E) is crucial, she says, “as they are key to strengthening capillary walls and reducing high colour”.
Finding brands that make any difference has been a challenge; I’ve found the Yuka app, which reveals the ingredients in skincare products, especially helpful. Here are my favourite finds:
CeraVe Foaming Cleanser
Three essential ceramides help protect the skin barrier, plus hyaluronic acid, which helps the skin retain moisture, and calming niacinamide. £11.50 for 236ml, lookfantastic.com
Skin Matters Calming Gel
This unscented gel restores and rebalances the skin barrier. Use before day cream and make-up, or overnight as a mask. £65 for 60ml, skin-matters.co.uk
Emma Lewisham Supernatural Blemish Face Serum
Lewisham’s products are rightly acclaimed for those with sensitive complexions. “A healthy and balanced microbiome is an absolute foundation for radiant, clear and balanced skin,” she says. “This serum contains a patented ingredient, Micrococcus luteus Q24, a probiotic clinically proven to inhibit the bad bacteria that causes the likes of rosacea, acne and eczema.” £68 for 30ml, emmalewisham.co.uk
Royal Fern Hydra-Firm Intense Mask
This is a soothing plant-based mask filled with antioxidants, fern extracts, chlorophyll and hyaluronic acid. Apply after cleansing and leave overnight. £160 for 50ml, uk.royalfern.com
Westman Atelier Skin Activator
A rosacea sufferer herself, Gucci Westman spent years developing a formula to calm redness. Her activator is “designed to soothe your skin with a combination of hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, noni fruit and prickly pear extract”, she says. Since using Skin Activator, she has kept rosacea “in control”. £138 for 20ml, westman-atelier.com
Wildsmith Super Hydrating Overnight Mask
An anti-redness complex containing ginger, turmeric and probiotics. Clinical trials showed 85 per cent effectiveness in reducing redness. £68 for 50ml, wildsmithskin.com
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