What makes Elton tick?

The Rocket Man is clearing out his condo in Park Place, Peachtree Road, Atlanta, over a series of eight Christie’s sales called The Collection of Sir Elton John: Goodbye Peachtree Road.

If collections are a sort of autobiography of the collector, then the most cursory of glances at the catalogue will tell you that Elton has led, literally and figuratively, a colourful life: there is enough here in the way of polychromatic Gianni Versace apparel and homewares to enable you to open a shop. Given the minstrel’s magpie eye when it comes to personal adornment, it follows that there are some eye-catching watches crossing the block as well. As Christie’s Europe head of watches Remi Guillemin explains, this is the sort of sale that turns some of the normal rules of watch-buying at auction on their head.

It’s knowing that these watches were worn by one of the greatest musicians in history, so the fact that there are no boxes and papers is actually a good sign

“It’s an auction for people who enjoy Elton John and his music. In terms of watches, it’s knowing that these watches were worn by one of the greatest musicians in history, so the fact that there are no boxes and papers is actually a good sign.” Usually, collectors like their watches as fully documented as possible; box, papers, sales invoice, hang tags and cardboard outer packaging all add to the value, and if it is still sealed in its factory plastic bag then you can almost name your price. “When you see watches still sealed in their plastic by the manufacturer, it means that they have not been worn.” But in this sale, the point is knowing that the timepiece has actually been on Elton’s wrist, rather than languishing unworn in his safe.

From a horological point of view, this selection of watches shows how far ahead of his time Elton was. Men’s gem-set watches have become extremely collectable over the past five years or so, but many of these pieces date from the 1990s and early 2000s. Of the 31 watches on show here, a mere six are not embellished with some form or other of gem setting.

Of particular note is the Rolex “Leopard” Daytona, dating from the turn of the century. With a leopard-print dial and strap, diamond-set lugs, and orange sapphire bezel, this is a watch of rare flamboyance from Rolex that sharply polarises opinion. For some contemporary collectors this is an example of that much-overused epithet, a “grail watch”, and Elton has had his knocking around for a few years.

Similarly impressive is the multicoloured diamond and gemstone-set Piaget Tanagra. While not scaling the Everests of bling that we would come to see in 21st-century watchmaking, when it was issued in the 1990s this must have been a truly arresting confection. It is all the more topical as it happens that Piaget is currently undergoing a long-overdue renaissance under the leadership of star CEO Benjamin Comar.

The Tanagra’s value resides in its visual impact, rather than the movement, which is quartz, once again reversing the conventional wisdom that collectors are only interested in mechanical or self-winding pieces. However, that is not to say that there are no interesting mechanical watches offered here. Elton was an early adopter of the Franck Muller brand, which, for a while in the early to mid-1990s, enjoyed the sort of renown now associated with Richard Mille or F P Journe. Franck was a wizard, with complications such as the perpetual calendar, chronograph, moon phase, retrograde month, 24-hour indicator and leap-year indicator all on offer in one of the watches in this sale. Priced at $10,000-$15,000, this piece speaks of an interesting period in the development of modern-era watchmaking and is a prize example of the much sought-after neo-vintage category. (This watch assumes extra significance when it is understood that it was Elton John who first introduced Gianni Versace to watch collecting – he showed him a display of Franck Mullers in Paris, of which Versace bought 20 in a single day. Thanks to the introduction by Elton, Muller then went on to design watches for Gianni Versace.)

Perhaps the most illuminating aspect of these watches, however, is the light they throw onto the owner, telling of deep friendships formed over decades rather than years. The inclusion of a number of extravagantly gem-set Chopard watches – in particular, a white-gold and diamond-set automatic chronograph with huge “tête de mort” lugs – testifies to a long friendship with Chopard artistic director Caroline Scheufele.

Caroline remembers first meeting him at one of her early dinners during the Cannes Film Festival. “It was on the beach of the Carlton,” she recalls. “He was already a client, and then that night we started discussing how to create a collection for his foundation.” Chopard was also a supporter of his white tie and tiara ball which raised millions for the star’s Aids Foundation until 2014. “We still continue to sponsor his Oscar-night dinner in LA, he really is a fantastic friend.”

Alain Dominique Perrin, the legendary luxury goods guru, feels exactly the same way. Perrin transformed Cartier during the 1970s, ’80s and ’90s, and Cartier pieces account for more than a third of the watches in this sale. Among the stars are a Crash, and a Tank Normale with a dial of baguette sapphires and a case smothered in diamonds. 

“He was invited to the launch of Cartier eyewear in Tunisia, in 1983,” recollects Perrin. “The evening was to take place under a huge tent, but the tent was destroyed by a storm.” A dinner was hastily prepared inside the hotel. Perrin was crestfallen. “When he saw my face, he said, ‘Okay, find a piano for me, and I’ll play one or two songs.’ Instead of one or two songs he did a full concert. It was fantastic and we became very good friends.”   

The friendship can be detected beyond the watches offered in the auction. “The first time he bought photography was in 1991 at Lagrézette, my chateau in Cahors, where he met an important, modern photography dealer from Los Angeles who was a very good friend of Herb Ritts. Elton was staying with Perrin for the Printemps de Cahors, a contemporary photography exhibition founded by Perrin’s then wife Marie-Thérèse.”

Some of Elton’s photography collection, including works by Richard Avedon, Peter Beard, Helmut Newton and Cindy Sherman is also being offered – and with estimates of up to half a million dollars, they make the watches look like excellent value.

“The Jewel Box” online auction, which includes the 31 watches, runs from 9 to 27 February on christies.com